The Lost Explorer : Finding Mallory On Mount Everest

This is the adventure story of the year -- how Conrad Anker found the body of George Mallory on Mount Everest, casting an entirely new light on the mystery of the explorer who may have conquered Everest seventy-five years ago.

On June 8, 1924, George Leigh Mallory and Andrew "Sandy" Irvine were last seen climbing toward the summit of Mount Everest. Clouds soon closed around them, and they vanished into history. Ever since, mountaineers have wondered whether they reached the summit twenty-nine years before Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay.

On May 1, 1999, Conrad Anker, one of the world's strongest mountaineers, discovered Mallory's body lying facedown, frozen into the scree and naturally mummified at 27,000 feet on Everest's north face. The condition of the body, as well as the artifacts found with Mallory, including goggles, an altimeter, and a carefully wrapped bundle of personal letters, are important clues in determining his fate. Seventeen days later, Anker free-climbed the Second Step, a 90-foot sheer cliff that is the single hardest obstacle on the north ridge. The first expedition known to have conquered the Second Step, a Chinese team in 1975, had tied a ladder to the cliff, leaving unanswered the question of whether Mallory could have climbed it in 1924. Anker's climb was the first test since Mallory's of the cliff's true difficulty. In treacherous conditions, Anker led teammate Dave Hahn from the Second Step to the summit.

Reflecting on the climb, Anker explains why he thinks Mallory and Irvine failed to make the summit, but at the same time, he expresses his awe at Mallory's achievement with the primitive equipment of the time. Stunningly handsome and charismatic, Mallory charmed everyone who met him during his lifetime and continues to fascinate mountaineers today. He was an able writer, a favorite of the Bloomsbury circle, and a climber of legendary gracefulness. The Lost Explorer is the remarkable story of this extraordinarily talented man and of the equally talented modern climber who spearheaded a discovery that may ultimately help solve the mystery of Mallory's disappearance.

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On June 8, 1924, George Leigh Mallory and Andrew "Sandy" Irvine were last seen climbing toward the summit of Mt. Everest. Clouds soon closed around them, and they vanished into history. Ever since, mountaineers have wondered whether they reached the summit, twenty-nine years before Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay. On May 1, 1999, Conrad Anker, one of the world's strongest mountaineers, discovered Mallory's body, frozen and naturally mummified at 27,000 feet on Everest's north face. The condition of the body, as well as the "artifacts" found with Mallory, are important clues in determining his fate. Seventeen days later Anker free-climbed the Second Step, a ninety-foot sheer cliff that is the single hardest obstacle on the north ridge. Anker's climb was the first test since Mallory's of the cliff's true difficulty. From the Second Step, Anker led teammate Dave Hahn to the summit under treacherous conditions. Reflecting on the climb, Anker explains why he thinks Mallory and Irvine failed to make the summit, but also expresses his awe for Mallory's achievement with the primitive equipment of the time. Handsome, charismatic, and a climber of legendary gracefulness, Mallory continues to fascinate mountaineers today. The Lost Explorer is the remarkable story of this extraordinary man, and of the equally talented modern climber who spearheaded a discovery that may help solve the mystery of Mallory's disappearance.

While "Lost Explorer" may not have all of the details about the 1924 expedition, or lengthy lists of sponsors for the expeditions, it has something that I found lacking in "Ghosts of Everest." Anker, while maybe not the most eloquent of writers, provides readers with an intensely personal view of his experiences. His version of the story seems altogether more truthful and honest than "Ghosts of Everest" which takes a more picturesque view of the events. Anker goes on to tell about a harrowing, high-altitude rescue and his own summit of Everest. Also, "Lost Explorer", though David Roberts's writing, provides the reader with a more intimate view of Mallory's life.

"Lost Explorer" is a passionate, fascinating, and, most importantly, personal story about extraordinary men (both past and present) and their journey on the same mountain.


Grave Robbers In Thin Air   March 16, 2002
 13 out of 25 found this review helpful

This book has 2 distinct stories. The story by David Roberts is that of Mallory the person...his life, times, and accomplishments. Sure Irvine is presented here, but it is always as a supporting and replaceable character. Roberts does an excellent job of showing the 3 Everest expeditions that Mallory undertook and how each was monumental in its own way.

Conrad Anker's story of the discovery of Mallory's body is appalling. You soon realize that these people had no idea what they were going to do if they did find Mallory or Irvine's body. When they found Mallory's body (they were looking for Irvine's) they immediately took to removing anything of even the remotest value they could from the corpse. I can understand taking some tissue samples and a few personal items (perhaps the letters and scarf), but why a knife? Why beef lozenges or a safety pin or pieces of twine? There were very few items that could show if the duo summited or lend a clue as to when they died (camera, altimeter, watch), so why steal the other items to put on display in a museum in Washington state? At least they had the decency to cover up the corpse. But they came back a few days later, unearthed the corpse, used a metal detector to find more items, then pried Mallory's face out of the ground for no reason other than that they could. Then Anker has the gall to complain endlessly about who had the rights to broadcast news of the discovery. If Irvine's body is ever found, we can only hope it will be treated with more respect than what these grave robbers showed to Mallory.

Anker goes on to talk of his summit attempt and other expeditions on the mountain. This is typical Everest fare with people doing stupid things and needing rescued. Conrad makes the summit and since he wasn't able to free climb the 2nd step assumes that Mallory couldn't either.

If there's anything to learn from this book, it's to fall all the way off the mountain or into a deep crevasse. Anything less risks being found by buffoons and picked clean.