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How to Climb Series: Climbing Anchors | 
 enlarge | Author: John Long
Publisher: Falcon
Category: Book
List Price: $12.95
Buy New: $3.25
You Save: $9.70 (75%)
New (14) Used (28) Collectible (2) from $1.88
Avg. Customer Rating:  15 reviews
Sales Rank: 191821
Media: Paperback
Edition: 1st
Number Of Items: 1
Pages: 112
Shipping Weight (lbs): 0.5
Dimensions (in): 9.1 x 6.1 x 0.3
ISBN: 0934641374
Dewey Decimal Number: 796.5223
EAN: 9780934641371
ASIN: 0934641374
Publication Date: January 1, 1993
Availability: Usually ships in 1-2 business days
Condition: paperback , smooth, tight, clean
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| Editorial Reviews:
Amazon.com Review
The most valuable skill you can acquire as a traditional climber is the ability to build sturdy, reliable anchors. Without that, no amount of natural talent or dumb luck will allow you to live a long, healthy life as a rock climber. Fortunately, John Long's guide to climbing anchors is a definitive source, with sections on natural, equalized, haul bag, and rappelling anchors. Whether you're using spring-loaded, camming devices or the old-school, passive tri-cams, Long presents a number of creative options for nearly every possible situation. Long is a patient teacher and his writing is clear and concise, but it's the hundreds of illustrations that really drive his lessons home. --Benjamin Tiffany
Product Description
Includes complete instructions on placing and configuring solid secure anchors in a variety of situations.
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| Customer Reviews: Read 10 more reviews...
 This is the gold standard for rock climbers October 19, 2007
Perhaps my title is a bit over stated, but seriously, Long does an excellent job of setting down some concrete rules that rock climbers will be well advised to follow if they intend to manage the risk involved in this sport. Nothing is perfect, and Long esplains well how logic and good judgement, proper training and experience are keys to safe climbing, along with knowledge attained from books. Having said that, I suppose I would have to say I am experienced (at least at some low level) in climbing and know something about safety and I strongly recommend this book to anyone who relies on an anchor for belay or protection. Climb on, be as safe (or unsafe) as you like, but do it understanding something about anchors so you can properly evaluate and manage the risk while doing so. John Long as made a real contribution to the sport and personally I take much of his advice as my bible, especially when my climbing buddies are relying on anchors I set.
 Very Close to a Personalized Lesson March 26, 2007
For the climber, uninitiated or not, Long has given a very practical instruction on building and analyzing anchors. The first section of the books explains anchors and equipment used to build them. For a moment I thought I would be relying on translating the text to a picture in my head--requiring multiple reads. But the second section (pictures and detailed analyses of anchors) brought the entire book and its concepts together as well as any writer could. It was clear that Long put a lot of thought and labor into preparing the analysis section for the reader. This is the most you can get out of an instruction book without actually hiring an instructor. Additionally, Long's prose is very entertaining and witty in a realm where the material could be incredibly dry, keeping the pages turning.
Reason for 4/5 instead of 5/5: there are some concepts, such as the belayer's place in the anchor, that could have been included in this book without consulting another text. However, more than your money's worth from this book--a must for the trad and aid climber.
Read it. Get the sequel. November 10, 2006
I survived my early years of climbing the old fashioned way: sheer, undeserved luck.
When I got back into it a few years ago, I decided that living until middle age might not be all that bad after all, so why not learn to do things right.
John Long's books on anchors (this one and More Climbing Anchors) were central to my re-education. Long's combination of experience, logic, and wit make these technical books fun to read. I find myself returning to them often.
The black and white pictures can be hard to decipher sometimes, and it does seem like we're due for the updated edition (which is supposed to be on the way). Until then, these books are the best resource on the subject.
Essential reading for trad climbing/natural anchor setup May 9, 2003
6 out of 6 found this review helpful
This book is extremely valuable for learning how to place protection or setting up anchors for trad climbing or top rope anchor setup. My friends and I carefully studied this book and went out and practiced placing gear and setting up anchors from the ground. When we went and took an anchor building class, we learned a lot of good tips, but the information we learned from this book helped us rapidly advance in our class. This book also is very helpful after you learn your basics because you can analyze various anchor setups and compare it to the analysis in the book. One drawback of this or any other book is that a picture is never as good as inspecting protection on your own at various angles close up. For this reason, you will want to go climbing with a more experienced partner or an instructor so they can give you more detailed feedback on your own protection placement skills.
I am only a beginner... February 1, 2003
3 out of 3 found this review helpful
...but this is a fantastic book. I have been climbing since I was in high school, and I'm only 22, but I have had a desire to lead trad since the beginning and if there is anything that I can say to make feel more comfortable about spending [money] just to be safe, then I want to say it. This book changed my perception about trad before I was even able to develop one on my own. I read this book cover to cover in 48 hrs. not because it was spell-binding but because it is such valid information. Look, you need this, and Mountaineering "The Freedon of the Hills," to begin the library of an adventure seeking individual. But, this book is specifically useful because of all of it's definitively perfect pictures of placements of passive gear and active camming devices. You want this book, believe me, and if you won't buy it then e-mail me and I'll sell you mine, or give it to you because it would be a crying shame to deck out just because you were too silly to purchase a book on "How not to die, and have fun doing it."
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