Maverick's: The Story of Big-Wave Surfing

This is mostly pre-tow era Mav's, and so naturally is already quite out-dated. But looking through the viewpoint of paddle-in only is still interesting for its historic relevance, and out-right machismo.

As impressive as this book is, I hesitate to give it five stars because, while it does capture many historic moments at Mav's, it is without the newer paradigms of Mav's. Warshaw did an excellent job chronicling an era of Mav's. But now, on many days thanks to tow-in, people are surfing the place quite different than what we see in this book. The Year of the Drag-In changed everything, and so did Nov. 20-21, 2001. I'd be delighted to see Matt do a follow-up.

Big wave surfers and Mark Sponsler take note. One of the reasons the Thanksgiving swell of 2001 was so huge was because the storm which produced it came quite close to California and covered a large swath of area with multivalent storm phenomena twisting within it- such storms are not uncommon far up in the Gulf of Alaska, or forming off of Russia and jumping over the Aleutians, tearing through the Bearing Sea. While the 100 foot wave may come to Maverick's once a year, or perhaps only once every few years or decade, it must be noted that in Alaska and especially the Aleutian Islands, these closer-range, huge and more direct storms and swells are a COMMON yearly occurence. Why do so many fishing boats disappear up there? Why do so many of the Aleutian Islands have surf erosion extending 300 feet up their lichen-green facades? Because the surf there gets truly epoch-making giant on a consistent basis! And many of the islands have plenty of lowlands, points, reefs, and bay entrances for serious big-wave set-up potential (Just ask Doc Renneker or Jeff Clark). Factors against the region are many: difficult access, colder temps and outright hazardous seas even for boats. But the scenario can also be mind blowing perfect- giant surf with offshore winds and rideable set-ups. The Aleutains are America's (and the surfing world's) forgotten isles. I know the Mav's crew has their hands full at Half Moon Bay, but if they ever get the growl for adventure to seek another 100 foot wave, I highly recommend looking more seriously at the Aleutains- our own Aleut Hawaii. With the right equipment and arranged lodgings, and with both air and overland transportation (all of this is really not a problem for some islands and areas), and with a few weeks to a month window, perhaps in October and November, I do believe multiple Mavericks await beyond the 50th parellel! But for now, hats off to Matt Warshaw, Daniel Duane, and the whole Mav's crew! You remake surfing history on a yearly basis! Be sure to visit me on the Rat Islands! You can stay in my sink hole!


Everest of the Ocean   February 21, 2001
 4 out of 6 found this review helpful

Once a year in northern California a swell of waves appear, large enough to crush a town, that can only be described as terrifying. This once hidden surf spot is known to the surf world today as Maverick's. The story begins by telling about surfing's roots in Hawaii and the long, flat pieces of redwood they used to surf on. In 1969 Greg Noll, a highly respected surfer, caught a thirty-foot wave at Todos Santos, an island off of California. Todos santos was thought to be a America's last word in surfing until Maverick's was discovered. The book focuses on the five most dangerous days in Maverick's history. On the first day, the celebrated surfer Mark Foo was killed on a wave that crashed too soon. The wave sent him into a bottomless pit of white-water, where he drownd. A memorial service was held to honor his life. After the surf world discovered Maverick's the first competition was held there entitled The Men Who Ride Mountains. Darryl Virostki won the event after a huge cutback and an arial off a fifteen-foot wave. Maverick's today remains won of the biggest names in big-wave surfing. I recommend this book to all surfers.


Awesome, even for non-surfers   January 22, 2001
 1 out of 3 found this review helpful

I don't surf but this book caught my eye in a store in NoCal. Bought it and got sucked into the power and mystique of Maverick's.

I highly recommend this book to anyone intrigued with the idea of riding waves as big as buildings. Read the book and if you are lucky enough, go watch them ride at Maverick's.


An Insightful Read   January 16, 2001
 3 out of 3 found this review helpful

Matt gets the essence of Mavericks right in this one. He paints an accurate picture in words and photos of the Californian big wave spot and and the watermen who have come since the beginning to test their courage in its extreme conditions. His book vividly describes the personalities and the necessary 'go for it' attitude needed to survive in these dangerous situations. The book also contains many facets about big-wave surfing from other areas and this adds another excellent dimension to the tale. I enjoyed the book immensely and once started I read it from cover to cover.


Loved It, Dudes   December 10, 2000
 1 out of 1 found this review helpful

There are lots of surfing books with spectacular pictures, but this one has the additional appeal of vividly riveting writing. Warshaw builds a brilliant story about big wave surfing leading up to the death of Mark Foo at Maverick's. Even if you never owned a surfboard, this book makes a great read.