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enlarge | Author: John Long Publisher: Falcon Category: Book
List Price: $12.95 Buy Used: $1.47 You Save: $11.48 (89%)
New (10) Used (37) Collectible (2) from $1.47
Avg. Customer Rating: 15 reviews Sales Rank: 289917
Media: Paperback Edition: 1st Number Of Items: 1 Pages: 112 Shipping Weight (lbs): 0.5 Dimensions (in): 9.1 x 6.1 x 0.3
ISBN: 0934641374 Dewey Decimal Number: 796.5223 EAN: 9780934641371 ASIN: 0934641374
Publication Date: January 1, 1993 Availability: Usually ships in 1-2 business days Shipping: Expedited shipping available Shipping: International shipping available Condition: Help save a tree. Buy all your used books from Green Earth Books. Read -> Recycle -> Reuse!
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| Customer Reviews:
Excellent Resource January 8, 2002 3 out of 4 found this review helpful
Books on climbing technique have typically been incomplete in their coverage and lacking in illustrative detail. John Long's "How To Rock Climb" series has made a quantum leap in these areas and are the current standard-bearers. This book and its companion (More Climbing Anchors) show many possible anchor problems and discuss the pros and cons of several solutions for each. By practicing the techniques presented, trad climbers can improve the integrity of their anchors.
Good book, but some "old" methods October 24, 2001 4 out of 4 found this review helpful
This book and its companion "More Climbing Anchors" are good to have if you will be doing any multipitch climbing. This book gives the principles of making anchors then shows examples of actual anchors and critiques each. Very helpful. The problem is the author, like many traditional climbers and guides, prefer to use the climbing rope as part of the anchor. This complicates things in a rescue situation. Slings and coralettes should be used for the belay anchors. Keep that in mind and this book will be very helpful for you in "real" climbing.
A must for trad climbers January 5, 2001 10 out of 11 found this review helpful
A bit out of date (for example, he talks about cordelettes like they're something really rare and new) and some of the black and white photos of anchor systems are difficult to see, but I still learned a lot from this book (in conjunction with hands-on learning, of course). It helps to have the companion book (More Climbing Anchors) because some of the techniques in there are a little more up to date. I liked how he talked about the pros/cons of each anchor setup and situation. I've heard that Bob Gaines and John Long are working on a new book on anchors, but not sure when that's supposed to be out.
Very good on gear placements; somewhat confusing elsewhere August 2, 2000 5 out of 5 found this review helpful
The first half of this book, which discusses protection and placements, is invaluable. However, when Long turns to complete anchors, the text becomes somewhat confusing. The section on opposing nuts using clove hitches, for example, may befuddle the beginner. The anchor analysis section is great in theory, but the black and white pictures are a little blurry and hard to see. Nevertheless, this is a very useful reference work.
Required Reading July 26, 2000 6 out of 6 found this review helpful
This book is required reading for every aspiring rock climber. Long provides explanations of the subtleties of placing nuts and cams that cannot be found anywhere else in print. The book's one flaw is that it somewhat overemphasizes using the rope to equalize multi-point anchor systems, a problem that is corrected in "More Climbing Anchors," the companion text by John Long and Bob Gaines.
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