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How to Climb Series: Climbing Anchors

How to Climb Series: Climbing Anchors

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Author: John Long
Publisher: Falcon
Category: Book

List Price: $12.95
Buy Used: $1.47
You Save: $11.48 (89%)



New (10) Used (37) Collectible (2) from $1.47

Avg. Customer Rating: 4.5 out of 5 stars 15 reviews
Sales Rank: 289917

Media: Paperback
Edition: 1st
Number Of Items: 1
Pages: 112
Shipping Weight (lbs): 0.5
Dimensions (in): 9.1 x 6.1 x 0.3

ISBN: 0934641374
Dewey Decimal Number: 796.5223
EAN: 9780934641371
ASIN: 0934641374

Publication Date: January 1, 1993
Availability: Usually ships in 1-2 business days
Shipping: Expedited shipping available
Shipping: International shipping available
Condition: Help save a tree. Buy all your used books from Green Earth Books. Read -> Recycle -> Reuse!

Customer Reviews:
Showing reviews 6-10 of 15
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5 out of 5 stars Excellent Resource   January 8, 2002
 3 out of 4 found this review helpful

Books on climbing technique have typically been incomplete in their coverage and lacking in illustrative detail. John Long's "How To Rock Climb" series has made a quantum leap in these areas and are the current standard-bearers. This book and its companion (More Climbing Anchors) show many possible anchor problems and discuss the pros and cons of several solutions for each. By practicing the techniques presented, trad climbers can improve the integrity of their anchors.


4 out of 5 stars Good book, but some "old" methods   October 24, 2001
 4 out of 4 found this review helpful

This book and its companion "More Climbing Anchors" are good to have if you will be doing any multipitch climbing. This book gives the principles of making anchors then shows examples of actual anchors and critiques each. Very helpful.
The problem is the author, like many traditional climbers and guides, prefer to use the climbing rope as part of the anchor. This complicates things in a rescue situation. Slings and coralettes should be used for the belay anchors. Keep that in mind and this book will be very helpful for you in "real" climbing.



4 out of 5 stars A must for trad climbers   January 5, 2001
 10 out of 11 found this review helpful

A bit out of date (for example, he talks about cordelettes like they're something really rare and new) and some of the black and white photos of anchor systems are difficult to see, but I still learned a lot from this book (in conjunction with hands-on learning, of course). It helps to have the companion book (More Climbing Anchors) because some of the techniques in there are a little more up to date. I liked how he talked about the pros/cons of each anchor setup and situation. I've heard that Bob Gaines and John Long are working on a new book on anchors, but not sure when that's supposed to be out.


4 out of 5 stars Very good on gear placements; somewhat confusing elsewhere   August 2, 2000
 5 out of 5 found this review helpful

The first half of this book, which discusses protection and placements, is invaluable. However, when Long turns to complete anchors, the text becomes somewhat confusing. The section on opposing nuts using clove hitches, for example, may befuddle the beginner. The anchor analysis section is great in theory, but the black and white pictures are a little blurry and hard to see. Nevertheless, this is a very useful reference work.


5 out of 5 stars Required Reading   July 26, 2000
 6 out of 6 found this review helpful

This book is required reading for every aspiring rock climber. Long provides explanations of the subtleties of placing nuts and cams that cannot be found anywhere else in print. The book's one flaw is that it somewhat overemphasizes using the rope to equalize multi-point anchor systems, a problem that is corrected in "More Climbing Anchors," the companion text by John Long and Bob Gaines.

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